Definition of Fabric Cutting | Objectives | Requirements of fabric cutting | Methods of fabric cutting
Definition of Fabric Cutting:
Cutting means to cut out the garments
pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting template or marker. To
make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. Generally the marker is applied
to the top ply of a lay. The use of the term cutting can present a difficulty.
It is used in the sense of cutting room, an area which normally includes the
activities of marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing.
Cutting often is carried out two stages:
cutting (separating the individual pieces) and the final cutting (accurate
cutting of the individual shapes). Different types of cutting tools have
different degrees of precision.
Objectives:The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to the dimension of the marker for the purpose of garments making according to the pattern pieces.
Requirements of fabric cutting:
The objective of
cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the pieces in the marker
plan. In achieving this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled:
1. Precision of cut,
2. Clean edges,
3. Infused edges,
4. Support of the lay,
5. Consistent cutting.
1.
Precision of cut:
Precision of cut
means cutting parts shape and size must be as per original sketch.
It depends upon
some factors:
§ The method of
cutting employed.
§ The marker
planning.
§ Marker duplicating
or making.
§ Condition of
cutting machine.
§ Skill of the
operator.
2.
Clean edges:
The raw edge of the
fabric should not show fraying or snagging. Such defects come from an
imperfectly sharped knife cutting parts must be free from fraying. To get this
knife, blade must be well sharpened.
3.
Infused edges:
The build-up of
heat in the knife blade comes from the friction of the blade passing through
the fabric. This, in extreme cases, leads to scorching of the fabric and, more
frequently, to the fusing of the raw edges of thermoplastic fibre fabrics such
as polyamide and polyester. The cutter cannot separate individual plies from
the plies of cut parts. Forced separation causes snagged edges and in any case
the hard edge is uncomfortable in wear.
Remedy:
I. Use anti-friction
paper between the layers.
II. Use silicon lubricants
on to the blade.
III. Height of ply
should be reduced.
IV. Slowing down
cutting speed.
V. Use well-sharpened
blade.
4. Support
of the lay:
The cutting system
must provide the means not only to support the fabric but also to allow the
blade to penetrate the lowest ply of a spread and sever all the fibres. If the
lay is not supported, the accuracy of cutting will be affected. Polyethene
sheet is kept over table and gum tape is used to fix it.
5. Consistent
cutting:
To get consistency of cutting, markers are
pinned on lay and all plies are clamped tightly with table so that all pieces
are cut at some pressure and no slippages of plies occur.
Causes
of defects:
I. Knife defection,
II. Knife setting,
III. Skill of operator.
Remedy:
a) Height of ply
should be reduced so that blade deflection not occurred.
b) Knife setting will
be 90° angle.
c) Needs skill operator.Methods of fabric cutting:
There are mainly three types of cutting
technique.
1. Completely by
manual Ã
Hand operated Scissor.
2. Manually operated
powered knife
a) Straight
knife
b) Band
blade
c)
Round blade
d) Die
cutter
e)
Notcher
f)
Drill
g) End
cutter
h)
Rotary Shear cutting machine
3. Computerized
technique
a)
Knife cutting.
b)
Cutting by water jet.
c)
Laser cutting.
d)
Ultrasound Cutting machine.
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